Iceland day 3-6: from Reykjavik to Egilssfadir

Tonight is the first night we’re sleeping in a warm house again after 3 nights of camping at different campsites. Up until now we’ve been blessed with beautiful weather, but it can be windy at times.

It’s also the first night I can properly charge my phone, so now I’m able to write a new post!

Day 3 Reykjavik to Vik

Before we got our car at 8am we did not really have a good nights rest. The downside of dorms is that you can be stuck with annoying roommates who slam doors at 2am and jump off their bunks as if they’re five years old. Thanks for that assholes.

Around 10 we left for adventure to Vík. Three stops on our way there: Urridafoss, Seljalandsfoss and Skogurfoss. All three waterfalls, so now you know what foss means!

On our road we’ve seen glaciers and volcano’s ahead of us. Both watching out carfully for suïcidal sheeps on crossing the headroad (1) and all the gravel to prevent any damage to the car.

Urridafoss

This waterfall on the route seems to be more unknown. Where Reykjavik hotspots are extremely crowded this waterfall did not have many visitors. I think there were just three cars on the parking. This waterfall also is the most voluminous one.

Seljalandsfoss

Next stop was Seljalandsfoss. This spot is cleary more touristic. When we arrived we had some trouble finding a parking spot and we had to pay for it. Most viewpoints are freely accessible, but it’s most important to respect everything you see and don’t destroy anything, not even the grass by walking on it!

Allthough I had a terrible headache we went to the waterfall to take a look and walk the path in the rocks behind it. Luckily we didn’t walk in t-shirts as some did, because you can be sure you’re gonna get wet where the water touches ground.

Even though you’re allowed to walk the path it’s wise to watch out on the slippery rocks. I didn’t slip, but hit my knee on a rock (‘cause I’m clumsy like that) leaving me with a beautiful color on my leg after two days.

Skogurfoss

In all honesty this was the highlight of my day. Not being in shape like most hikers :’) we climbed the rocks following the river of the waterfall to the closest top, where we could see the nearest volcano and it’s glacier and on the other side the land to the sea. The higher we got the more easy the walk became. We only had eyes for the landscape now.

At the top we sat in the sun for a while until we thought it was time to go. Just relaxing.

Vík

At Vík we did some groceries and put up our tent for the night at a campsite at the foot of a mountain rock. Then we walked to the shore where the sand is dark and black (volcanic sand) and the sea is rough.

Day 4 Vík to Skaftafell (national park)

We got up early by ourselves and took the time to charge our equipment at the common area, which the day before was completely packed with travelers. We were glad our tent had survived the windy and cold night. It meant our camping nights to come would be fine as well!

Reynisfjara

We decided to drive a bit back around the rocks before we would drive our planned route to watch the black beach on the other side. The stone wall there has specific six sided rock (kind of) pillars which are formed by lava/magma cooling down.

I also sat there for quite a while on the little stones of the beach to photograph the puffins who fly there from the rocks to the sea and back.

(Photo edit when I return)

They’re really cute like awkward flying pinguins, but hard to capture on a photo when flying.

Fjardárglúfur

After some time we arrived at Fjardárglúfur, a gap in a mountain in which a river flows. You can climb up high until you reach a waterfall.

What annoyed me here and everywhere is that people cross lines for protection, personal and floral, just to make the perfect insta picture or video. It’s unreal happiness captured and goes with huge disrespect to the preservation of Icelands nature. Also drones are flying around your head as if you stepped on a beehive. What good is your story if you’re not really there to see and live it?

My photographs might not be the most social worthy, but they’re made with respect for the surroundings..

Hof – Skaftafell National Park

We made our way further on to Skaftafell National Park where we stayed overnight next to the biggest glacier in Iceland and waterfall Svartifoss.

On our way we didn’t kill any sheep yet, but we did notice how quickly the weather and landscape can change in two hours. From green to empty landscapes, from to lava fields to an almost desert like space with rocks. Rain, sun, local sandstorms, rough winds.. All at the same time. What I found beautiful is the grass in the mountains moved by the wind like waves in the sea.

When we arrived we thought we could quickly climb up to Svartifoss before we would call it a night. We left without eating first and taking our water. That’s a mistake we won’t make again any time soon!

Day 5 Skaftafell to Höfn

We woke up early again. As everyday Nathalie planned the stops which were two glaciers: Fjallsárlón and Jökulsárlón.

Fjallsárlón

At the first glacier the wind was blowing so hard I could almost lean on it. The first sight at the glacier made me go “wow”. I had never seen one before up close. The floes in the water and the blue colors are amazing. Underneath a rock I found a picture of a grandmother, passed away.

At the café near we sat for a moment to warm up and eat Skyr Cake which was just like a cheesecake and super deliscious.

Jökulsárlón

Just 10 minutes away! This one was larger and you could see the floes flow with the stream towards the sea. In between you could spot seals and also here people were getting married. On our way back we saw the floes going backwards, probably because of the flood.

Before we left we saw a hitchhiker (we see a lot of them on the road) who didn’t seem to get a ride, but when we got in Höfn we saw him walking towards Ósland where we were headed after doing some groceries. Apparently he made it!

During the walk I started to feel some pain in my achilles, probably because I’m not used to hiking.

Day 6 Höfn to Egilsstadir

This morning I woke up late. Packed in three (or more) layers of clothing and a sleeping bag zipped up to my nose I looked like a very inflamable worm. But comfortably warm and tired from the day before I slept until 10.

To Djúpivogur

After breakfast I taped my foot and we got ready to drive to Djúpivogur a fishermen village. Halfway we stopped at a viewpoint to walk over a beach and the rocks.

At the village we lunched at a café and ate fish soup and Pavlova cake <3

To Egilsstadir

But then the real adventure started..

To get to Egilsstadir Nathalie had to drive on a long gravelroad (still mainroad 1) with our normal person car through the valleys and mountains while we finally saw those suïcidal sheep crossing the road wherever they wanted to.

Due to the road and naughty little sheep it took a bit longer than expected.

But here we are at Guesthouse Birta!

If you wonder what it’s like traveling with the two of us:

Omg! This tunnel is so dark.

– Ehm, you still have your sunglasses on..

Omg! Where’s my key???

– it’s in your hand?

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